Deathripper step-by-step, sort of speed painted

Last year I made a step-by-step on how I paint my cryxian jacks for a danish forum. Now I finally got around to translating it (rather speedily I admit – forgive any obvious errors)… You are of course welcome to paint something similar and use the same or other colors etc – otherwise I would not do this step by step.

But most of all, I hope the idea of breaking down the painting into managable steps can be of help to a reader or two: The goal is to get a decent model that does not look “rushed”, but in as short a time as possible. This death ripper took approx. 2 hours and 20 minutes to paint (ie just over 11 hours for five of them), which I think is acceptable.

The idea is primarily to break the paint routine down into some basic steps that are quick to reproduce. No “backtracking”, each colour should preferably be used only once! I will try to explain at each step. At the same time, it is all about breaking the process down to fit optimally with your painting routine and “painting time slots”: These bone chickens are basically all painted over 3-4 painting session with downtime for the paint to dry in between. The number of models painted simultaneously depends on the amount of time I’ve got at each session. This means that the models take quite some days to paint, but only very few hours actually at the paint station.

I’ve used the now discontinued washes from Games Workshop throughout this SbS. But as I understand it, the new washes works about the same. I haven’t tried them yet, but they should be a bit thinner than the old ones. But as I only ever use the washes thinned with a bit of water, the new ones should work just fine.

Enough ramblings, here goes:

Step 1 – Base Metal: On a white primer I paint the entire model with GW’s Boltgun Metal, except for the bone parts. It could as well be done over black primer, but then I had to paint more layers on the skull. So white primer.

Step 2 – Wash # 1: All the metal parts gets a wash with a slightly diluted GW Badab Black. The black wash is used this early because: 1) the steel is the only color to be black wash, so I do not need to think about painting accurately. 2) I do chippings on the red with “liquid masque,” and in this way, the metal that appears i nthe chippings is shaded a little. Washes takes some time to dry, so I typically end my painting session #1 here.

Step 3 – Base Colouring: Before I paint on the base colours, I have a bit of fun with Vallejo Model Color Liquid Masque, a liquid latex mask. I use a piece of sponge from a blister pack on the areas that are going to be red. It’s a quite fast technique when you get the hang of it, way faster than painting the chippings afterwards.

Then to the most tedious phase of the painting. The red areas are painted with P3 Skorne Red, it takes a 2-3 thin coats to get an even coverage. It doesn’t have to be perfect, but it must be even for the next wash to work properly!. The gold is Vallejo Old Gold, a alcohol based metal paint, it can be tricky to work with, but it makes a nice and even coverage in one layer (= win). The skull is P3 Menoth White Base and the teeth P3 Menoth White Highlight.

The goal of this phase is to get some fairly even and smooth surfaces for the wash. The extra time spend on this step makes the later phases easier  and quicker and the finished model nicer. So spend your time on the base layers!

Step 4 – Wash # 2-3: The entire model now gets a wash with a slightly diluted GW Devlan Mud. I use a large brush (size 4-5, I believe) and moves the brush from where the highlight’s going to be to where the shadows are going to be, as the brush leaves the most paint at the end of the stroke. Then the wash needs to dry for a while, so I finish painting session 2 here.

When Doctor Devlan has dried, I give all areas except the reds a wash with slightly diluted GW Gryphonne Sepia. This different extra shade slightly deepens the colour, as Devlan Mud by itself is really flat. This again has to dry, but usually I can starting on the reds right away and by the time I’m done there, this wash will be dry. Timing is everything when speed painting.

Technically, I could stop here and have a fairly nice tabletop quality model of the dip/army-painter variant. However, the next three steps are quite quick compared to the time already spend and it takes the model to a different level, really.

Step 5 – Final Shading: The red is shaded with GW Ogryn Flesh. This is done quickly not as a wash, but as a glaze. Again, work the paint into the shadows. Then I shade the deepest shadows on the entire model with GW Leviathan Purple, starting on the metals, which are supposed to be dry now, then the reds where the Ogryn Flesh should be dry. The purple helps to establish the depth and to provides essential contrast: The red color deepens with purple and you get a yellow-purple contrast in the golds.

Step 6 – Highlighting: First, the metals and gold gets a ultraquick highlight with the base colors, pretty much just edge highlights.

Then I highlight the red:  first with P3 Skorne Red, then P3 Khador Red Base. After that’s done, I gently scratch the latex mask off (my fingernails are usually the best tool) and the edge of the scratches get a thin line with Khador Red with a small dollop of P3 Menoth White Highlight.

The bones are highlighted with base colours (Menoth White Base and Highlight respectively), then a quick wash with Gryphonne Sepia followed by the base colours again as the final highlight.

Step 7 – Necrotite Glow: The necrotite green is painted last, as the green doesn’t get any washes and painting it earlier would require “backtracking” at this point and because the glow effect needs to be done when the rest of the model is finished. The light sources are painted with P3 Iosan Green, then roughly blended into P3 Wyrm Green. The final highlight of the light sources are Wyrm Green mixed with Menoth White Highlight. The glow effects are diluted Wyrm Green, quickly glazed around the light source.  The glow is quite pale, as I udd white instead of yellow to the green, but in my opinion it creates a better warm-cold contrast (the warm colors remaining legs, red, gold and tinted metal and the cold color of the green – the purple gets hot when coupled with red) with the rest of the model. Other color schemes may well behave differently (PPs studio Cryx are, for example, cold models in gray shades, contrasted with the warm glow).

Once the glow is dry the model is done:

The only thing left is the base. And here’s the final shot of my chicken farm after the bases got done:

C,C and Qs welcomed.


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2 Responses »

  1. I love these guys. Assuming the red parts are going to be Catachan Green instead (my scheme) what would you do differently?

  2. Green colours aren’t without problems when it come to washing with browns (the colour gets muddy real quick), though it should be workable, especially with the army/camo green nuances like Catachan Green.

    Careful attention to the wash with Devlan Mud is essential: Do not allow the wash to pool anywhere on the green. Other than that, follow my step by step. I would still use a purple for the deepest shades, as it works great on greens, but instead of Ogryn Flesh use some sort of thinned down green wash (Thraka Green?).

    With the armour parts green, I would paint the necrotite and the glow in a warmer, yellowy tone, perhaps like it is done in FoW: Cryx. Without the red, the model gets quite cold and could need some warmth for contrast, like the studio Cryx the necrotite could be the answer.

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